As promised in my earlier this summer I am continuing to grow my Flower Wheel Coaster into what will become The Flower Wheel Mandala Series. The first instalment of this is this Small Flower Wheel Coaster Square…. the long name is kind of on purpose as you will see as we go along. In the end there will be all sorts of ways to combine different squares creatively to make blankets, bags, cushion covers etc – in a way that suits you. I have made the squares in 3 different yarns: Drops Nepal (Aran weight) with a 5 mm hook, Drops Belle (DK weight) with a 4 mm hook and Scheepjes Catona (4-ply) with a 3 mm hook. The Aran one measures 8 inches /20 cm across, the DK one 6.4 inches /16 cm and the Catona one about 5 inches / 13 cm. Please note that Scheepjes Catona is thicker than some other 4-ply yarns, so if you use other 4-plys the squares might not be the same size.
Please remember that this is my design and my copyright. You’re most welcome to use the pattern for yourself, but please do not copy, reproduce or translate it and use it as your own. If you sell what you make or post pictures of your makes I would appreciate if you mention where you got the pattern and direct people to my site. Thanks!
To begin this Small Flower Wheel Coaster Square you have to complete the Flower Wheel Coaster (click the link to get to the pattern). Then you can proceed to square the circle following the instructions below. The pattern is given in both UK and US terms. There are no special stitches in this part of the pattern and you’ll have made a nice small square in just 3 rounds! The next instalment of the Flower Wheel Mandala Series will grow this.
The pattern uses standing stitches and invisible joins to start and finish off rounds. If you’re not already familiar with this technique there’s a blogpost on my site here with the complete instructions. Other wise you can use turning chains and slip stitches to start and finish instead.
UK TERMS
ROUND 1: make standing trtr in any st, ch 3, 1 trtr in same st, * ch 1, skip next st, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 tr in next st, ch 1, skip next st) x 2, 1 htr in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) x 3, 1 htr in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 tr in next st, ch 1, skip next st) x 2, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 trtr, ch 3, 1 trtr) in next st *, repeat from * to * 3 more times omitting the last ( ) the last time, ss in top of standing trtr. Fasten off and change yarn if so wished.
ROUND 2: standing dc in ch3 space, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same ch3 sp, * 2 dc in next 12 ch sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch sp *, repeat from * to * 3 more times omitting the ( ) the last time, ss or invisible join in standing dc. (28 dc along each side)
ROUND 3: standing htr in one corner space, ch 2, 1 htr in same corner sp, * 1 htr in next 28 sts, (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in corner sp *, repeat from * to * 3 more times omitting last corner space, join to standing htr with ss or invisible join. (30 htr along each side)
US TERMS
ROUND 1: make standing dtr in any st, ch 3, 1 dtr in same st, * ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) x 2, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) x 3, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) x 2, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, skip next st, (1 dtr, ch 3, 1 dtr) in next st *, repeat from * to * 3 more times omitting the last ( ) the last time, ss in top of standing dtr. Fasten off and change yarn if so wished.
ROUND 2: standing sc in ch3 space, (1 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in same ch3 sp, * 2 sc in next 12 ch sp, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch sp *, repeat from * to * 3 more times omitting the ( ) the last time, ss or invisible join in standing sc. (28 sc along each side)
ROUND 3: standing hdc in one corner space, ch 2, 1 hdc in same corner sp, * 1 hdc in next 28 sts, (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in corner sp *, repeat from * to * 3 more times omitting last corner space, join to standing hdc with ss or invisible join. (30 hdc along each side)
The finished squares are really very square, but anything can do with blocking to make sure they lie really flat and the sides are really straight.
I’m in the process of making enough squares of the Scheepjes Catona to make a cushion cover – I reckon it will take 9 + a border. I hope you enjoyed making the square and will follow the development of the Flower Wheel Mandala Series as we go along – the next instalment will be out soon! Please feel free to share the link to this page and to share your photos either on my Facebook Page or to tag me @saraphir and #smallflowerwheelcoastersquare on Instagram – I would love to see your version!
© SARAPHIR QAA-RISHI
